![]() On a tuned 250 cylinder a believe 36mm is sufficent. Mmmmm,why the monster 39mm carb ,this IMO seems like slight overkill. Unless the hole is blocked of coarse, which is possible. If your water pump is faulty you will see coolant leaking from a small 'tell tale' hole just underneath the water pump casing housing. Last edited by lazerusrm 06-24-2008 at 03:26 AM.Ĭould it be possible you have a leak at the cylinder head gasket or the base gasket?, am assuming you do not have the proper tools to pressure test your cylinder after re-build. The coolant does not boil until it gets above 250-260+ (somewhere in there) so i know the cap is good. The engine still runs very strong, it just overheats (250+) very easily. I noticed i do have an exhaust leak, would that alone be enough to cause it to overheat badly? Are there any super secret tricks to bleeding the coolant system other than what the manual states? Latest WOT plug chop reveals a very BROWN plug The dang thing will overheat cruizing at 25-30 mph with no light load after about 10 mins of riding on the street. The radiators are very straight with very little fin damage. My question is, i know the cooling system is in good order (This is a very clean 250r) i flushed it and filled it with water / engine ice, examined the pump, etc. I put a 180 back in to richen it up a bit, it hasn't affected the cooling. It ran great for a while.īut then i started to have overheating issues. When i first got it back together, i started with a pretty fat main (200) i slimmed it up a little to 185, and it ran alright, still seemed to bog at WOT, Plug chops were very black. 20 over (i did the work muhself, as always)
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